Neil Aronson (Updated August 2024) Walking Thailand is the best way to really see the cities. If your like me and you want to see the sights up close, then the best way to do that is to see it by foot. Not only can you burn off the previous nights beers, you won’t miss any of the sights and smells. For those of us who need to photograph everything, then walking is the way to go.
When visiting Chiang Mai, I think the best way to see the city is just step out of your hotel room and just start walking Thailand. Chiang Mai is a very walkable city and flat, perhaps the best big city for walking Thailand. While it may seem overwhelming at first, once you start cruising around each day you will find your way.
The area inside the old city (Walled City) is only about 1.5 square km. That makes it packed full of sights for such a small area. And being surrounded by a moat, it’s almost impossible to get completely lost.
When I first visited Thailand in 2010, I was visiting a friend from California who had moved to Chiang Mai to teach. I had not yet met my wife Belle (I later would that same trip). On my first day, my friend was working and so I had all day to find something to do. I have always enjoyed walking around cities I didn’t know having no plan.
So that is what I did. I left the Novotel hotel, which was just outside the walled city, and walked in the direction of the Ancient Walled ‘Old’ City. No GPS is the best way get lost while walking Thailand. And getting lost is when you find all the good stuff!
Walking Thailand Carefully
As I start walking Thailand, I make my way from the hotel towards Chiang Mai’s Old City. I had to be careful. Being my first day in Thailand, my head was on a swivel, looking at all the new things I was about to experience. I didn’t want to get run over by a speeding Tuk Tuk, at least not yet.
It’s important to remember, people generally don’t stop for pedestrians. Therefore, cross busy streets with caution! Nobody told me to go the way I did, but I could just tell there were incredibly interesting things straight ahead! Finding my way was going to be old school intuition, no maps and smartphone (didn’t even own one yet).
I had traveled already to many parts of the world, but this day was the first time I truly felt like I was in ‘another world’. Nothing looked, felt, smelled, like I was used to back in California.
Walking Thailand I knew I had discovered something incredible, and thinking why did I not come here years ago. I felt like Anthony Bourdain did when he talked about first visiting Thailand.
I remember the moment I first realized I’ve been living my whole life in black and white. It was like discovering a color I never knew existed before. A whole new crayon box full of colors, that was it for me. From then on, there was no putting the pieces back together. No going home. Things were different now. Asia had ruined me for my old life.
Anthony Bourdain
Dodging traffic as I approached the moat the surrounds the Walled City, I could sense there was another world on the other side of that ancient wall. Inside I was treated to narrow streets filled with that distinct aroma of local restaurants, coffee houses, massage parlors, small markets, and of course the famous temples.
Once your inside the ancient wall, you can lose yourself strolling around the various streets. Since your surrounded by a wall of all sides, you won’t get too lost. So just keep taking different streets and see what you can find walking Thailand.
Explore Local Shops
You will come across many locally owned businesses. If you need a massage, there is one on pretty much every block. Need a coffee break, stop at one of the local coffee houses. You don’t need to go far to find one.
Definitely stroll through every open food market you come across, just to look at all they have to offer. You will probably see things you never have before.
If you need a massage I recommend Lila Thai Massage, located near the Tha Phae Gate. It is founded by a former director of the Chiang Mai women’s prison. Prisoners who took part in training programs, get a chance to work at this center, helping them start a new life. Very friendly people.
Another great massage experience, and lunch, can be had at the Chiang Mai Women Correctional Institution Vocational Training Center. Located a short walk from the Three Kings Monument.
It is just what the name says. Women serving time at the low security prison are given the opportunity to learn skills including Thai massage and working in the restaurant, which has good Thai food.
I had my first massage in Chiang Mai here. As I was randomly walking Thailand, I came across it. I could not resist the experience. I went back many times, they are serious about their craft. Highly recommend.
Eat Some Street Food
One of the best things about walking Thailand is the street food. Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or a drunken snack. This is how you will want eat like a local. And bonus, it’s cheap, and authentic. My wife cannot resist stopping at her favorite stand when in the city. Meat balls are a must for her. Some have been in same spot for years.
You will find most locations on the busier streets of course, or in and around open markets. Try some: *Khao Soi (Egg Noodle Curry). *Sai Oua (Grilled Spicy Herb Sausage) *Som Tam- Papaya Salad for a light refreshing snack *Anything grille on a stick! Fish, Beef, Chicken.
You can easily walk around the busy areas of town and the markets, and find plenty of local street food options on your own. But there are also options for taking a street food tour, which of course is a more expensive touristy option costing around $35. I would recommend going on your own, and talking to the friendly vendors.
Street food tours can be booked on Viator here.
Stop for a Cappuccino
There are so many amazing unique coffee shops, most of which serve great coffee, much of it locally grown. When walking Thailand it’s hard not to run into a coffee shop. Most of them are quaint, and locally owned. This is where you will find great coffee in a unique environments, for around 30 baht for a cappuccino.
There are of course some Thai chain brands as well, and are slightly more expensive. The shops over by the Tha Phae gate tend to be more frequented by tourists, thus more expensive.
Stroll the Street Markets
One of the most favorite pastimes of locals, and of course tourist is going to the street markets. Chiang Mai has it’s share of great ones. The daily ones are mostly made up of locals doing their shopping. While the weekly ones tend to have more of the items tourist buy. There are both day time and night time markets.
1. A must, especially for a first time visitor is the Sunday walking street next to the Tha Phae Gate. Normally a busy section of Rachadamnoen Rd, it is closed off to traffic every Sunday afternoon for a street fair of arts and crafts, food and entertainment. Many of the products sold come from the Hilltribes and locals.
2. A second must if the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar, open every day 5pm-midnight. Only about a 15 minute walk from the Tha Phae Gate. It is located to the east and in between the moat and the Ping River. On Chang Khlan Road, between Tha Phae and Sridonchai Roads. Also one of my favorite areas of the city to walk around.
3. Just north of the Night Bazaar is another great shopping area along the Ping river. There is Chinese Market, Fruit Market, and the Municipal Market. Next to those along the Ping River is the Ton Lam Yai Market. Which is a weekday market with a covered section selling flowers, produce & household goods. Basically you can find everything in the small area.
Our Favorite Streets
We all have our favorite hometown streets. The ones that just look interesting, and are full of interesting places and things. For me these 2 streets and small areas are my favorite. You can walk from one to the other in 10-15 minutes.
Moon Muang Rd Lane 7, or Soi 7.
I love this area of town. Soi 7 is a quant small street lined with Boutique hotels, hostels, and great local restaurants. Your right off the 2 busy streets that circle the city center, however these side streets are tranquil with barley a car. I feel as if I am transported into another place. Walk all around the surrounding streets and ally’s, and take in the local culture.
If you are in the mood for Pizza, try By Hand Pizza. Woodfired right on the street.
One the next street over, Soi 6, you will also find some great budget hotels and local restaurants. Across from the Eurana Boutique Hotel you will find a local restaurant called Nice Kitchen (151 Moonmuang Rd Lane 6). Run by a local who lives upstairs, if you get to know her she will treat you right. A good option for lodging is the Eurana Hotel. We have stayed there several times. Very nice, good rates and great location.
MD Boutique is another favorite place to stay and central to this area for walking Thailand.
Ratchapakhinai Rd
This road run North/South from one end of the Wall to the other. Lined with Temples, great food and drink, massage, hotels. The north end is busier with traffic, but south of Rachadamnoen Rd it gets much quieter and narrow.
If you are over by Moonmuang Rd Lane 7 (above), head west away from the moat. Just a few blocks of more sights, and you will run into this road. On the north end you can find one of the more famously visited temples, Wat Chiang Man. A Lana style temple, this is the oldest temple in Chiang Mai, dating back to 1296. This is must to visit and snap some photos.
For more on this and other top temples you can walk to, read our article. 10 must see temples in Chiang Mai.
Heading South you will reach the corner of Ratchapakhinai and Rachadamnoen Rd. There is a sort of mini mall across from the Yamaha store. Here you can find a great local coffee house and several popular local restaurants. This is a good spot to spot for lunch and coffee.
Here you will find one of my wife’s favorite local noodle shops, Blue Noodles. Whenever we are in this area, she will go. If you want authentic Thai noodles, for about 60 baht, go there.
A small local Raman restaurant, Umakute Gokyu Ramen, is a couple doors any from Blue Noodle in the same mall. Small, but very popular in a courtyard setting.
Further down the road is Bodhi Serene Hotel, one of our favorite places to stay. Amazing and not too expensive.
Keep walking south and this street get smaller and more quaint. There are small coffee shops, bars, massage, boutique hotels, and some more great restaurants.
If your craving a burger, stop at Arno’s Chiang Mai. Small steakhouse with a great burger. I’m going against what I just said as this in not a local independent shop, but a chain franchise.
Just past Arno’s are several of great hotels and guesthouses around the intersection of Alley 3. We have stayed at Bodhi Serene, which is upscale, however in the off season can get great rates well under 1800 baht.
Stop for a coffee at the bike shop. Trailhead Mountain Bike shop has some good coffee, and this is where you want to go if you want to arrange a bike trip.
Recommended hotels in this area:
Looking for a massage? Keep walking a block down and stop at Kanthong Traditional Thai Massage. Great foot massages.
Finally at the end of the road, is a gem of a restaurant. Airniversary Camp & Cafe. From the street it looks nice, however inside is basically a giant treehouse restaurant with multiple sections and levels. Great place to bring the family as they have a little of everything. The best part about it beside great food is the atmosphere.
We have reached the end of Ratchapakhinai Rd. Now you just need to turn around and find more streets and alleyways to explore. The Old City is full of them. This was just a taste. I like the think of the Tha Phae Gate as my ‘home base’. From there you just pick a direction and go.
Walking Thailand is my favorite activity to do. Best of all it’s free. And if you need to re-group, you can always pick up a tuk-tuk to find your way back. Ready to make your next move around Chiang Mai. More to come in following articles.
Be Prepared
As I said at the top, you could get hit with a Tuk-Tuk. And this is when you wished you had Travel Insurance.
Do not travel internationally without Travel Insurance. Unfortunately bad things can happen at any time, and for less than $2.00 a day, why not be covered. Everyone with travel questions always ask if they need insurance. We say you do.
Resources
Agoda is the best place to book cheap affordable hotels in Thailand, especially near national parks. They also book flights as well.
Expedia is my favorite place to book flights, hotels, cars, and more. Their group includes Hotels.com and Vrbo for vacation rentals.
Viator is the top choice for activities. Book everything from a waterfall tour to scuba diving, jungle trekking to cooking classes. Do the Chiang Mai Golf Challenge from Viator.
12Go is the top transportation source for Asia. From busses to trains to regional flights.
